Tying Tips

Get It Down on Paper!

I was fortunate in my early fly tying education to have a mate who was years ahead in fly design. The flies which sprang to life from his vice were remarkable.

He read widely on overseas trends in fly tying and adapted flies to suit Australian conditions. A battered notebook was his constant companion and in its tattered pages there lay a wealth of information on tying techniques, materials etc. A box of these notebooks occupies a corner in his study waiting patiently to be summoned into service.

My own journey in fly tying has been less enlightening but I have found it extremely helpful to write fly recipes down especially when developing a new pattern. Besides noting suitable hook patterns, sizes and materials, make sure you note each step clearly as if you were explaining the steps over the phone.

Following this procedure is much easier now with computers, but the small tricks you develop to overcome a problem are there in black and white. These tricks are the essence of good fly tying and even experienced tyers sometimes need a refresher when revisiting a fly they have not tied for a while.

Using Stretch Cord

I first came into contact with stretch cord in Darwin in the late 1980’s. My fly fishing mate had staggered across the stuff in a craft store. Knowing I might be able to use it in some fly patterns, he kept some to show me on one of my trips north.

Since then all my Crazy Charlies were made with stretch cord bodies. However, I didn’t use it for any freshwater flies, mainly because the diameters available then were too thick. It was only after reading an article by Marc Griffiths in Flylife that I widened my applications to freshwater flies too.

On a trip to NZ I was amazed with the response we had to these translucent bodied nymphs.  When fishing the flats of a delta, we found fish coming from much further distances than previous trips to engulf these flies.

Subsequent trips have reinforced that behaviour. I now only tie and use these nymphs as pictured on this site.

Griffo’s Celluloid Shrimp is the culmination of my search for a prawn/shrimp imitation. It is a tough, durable, all synthetic fly which will catch plenty of fish. No epoxy is used so the fly doesn’t discolour. See pictures of this and other flies on the site.

Stretch cord is now available in a variety of diameters and colours and I have used it on flies from no.18 to 2/0. I only use the clear cord, preferring to put some coloured material under the cord.

I did have a few hiccups using the stuff but gradually overcame the problems as explained below.

Lightly stretch the cord before use. This makes it softer to use and the cord will tighten slightly on the shank of the hook and not twist.

I use fine monofilament thread for saltwater flies. This allows me to make many turns without building up unwanted bulk.

I tie the cord along the top of the shank, applying slight tension to the cord in the process. When I get to the bend of the hook I make maybe as many as 20 turns, then make 2 turns under the cord around the shank only, before several more turns over the top. This eliminates the tendency of the cord twisting when you attempt to wind the body on.

By applying gradually decreasing tension on the stretch cord as you wind it on, you can get a tapered body.

I use Sparkleflash, Krystalflash, Gliss n Glow or Holographic tinsels under the cord on saltwater flies. For freshwater flies I usually just use the coloured tying thread or dubbing material.

By leaving gaps over a dubbed underbody, the dubbing will protrude between the stretch cord which looks very buggy.

Stretch cord also makes good legs. But that’s another story.

Happy Tying

Griffo

NOTE: All the flies shown on this site are tied by Alan Griffiths.